1. Problem - No hot water

Items to check Water heater bypass may still be in “Bypass Setting”. Locate your hot water bypass system on the rear of your hot water tank. Open the valves, which would be the opposite of the way they are for winterizing. Let the water run into the tank. You may want to leave the tank drain plug out to let water flow through the tank to flush any sediment out. Turn off your water supply and let the tank drain completely before re-installing the drain plug. Turn on the water supply again. After your tank has filled, run all the hot water taps to ensure all the lines are clear of RV antifreeze.

Electric water heater may not be turned on.
Electric water heaters may have more than one switch. On water heaters with the electric feature, there is usually a switch on the front or rear of the water heater, as well as the breaker.

2. Problem – False Monitor Panel Readings

Monitor panels can often give inaccurate readings, due to paper and grease get onto the probes on the inside of the tank. A combination of cleaners and water can help maintain the accuracy of the system. Although this helps, getting an accurate reading from your holding tanks can be very frustrating. Many RV’ers end up using the “dump the tanks every so many days” system.

3. Problem – Battery Hook up

What color goes where?

There are several combinations

1. Black + “positive” cable and White -“negative” cable
2. Red + “positive” cable and White - “negative” cable
3. Red + “positive” cable and Black -“negative” cable

As you can see White is always negative (-), Red is always positive (+) and Black can be either.

4. Why does my battery go dead?

The propane detector, stereo, and fridge will draw from your battery at all times while being connected. This will drain a battery in approx. one week. Your propane detector will start to beep when the battery gets low. The refrigerator “climate control” switch must be turned to the off position when your RV is not in use. It will draw electricity even if the main fridge control is turned to the off position.

The average RV battery has about 80 amp/hours. The propane detector used approx. ½ amp per hour, one light bulb uses approx. 1 amp per hour, furnaces use approx 8 amps per hour.

5. Dewinterizing your RV water system

Follow this procedure to remove the RV antifreeze from your RV's water system and ready it for use.

Step 1. Use your frest water hose and add several gallons of water to your fresh water tank through the fresh water inlet on the outside of your trailer. Leave the drain valve open for several minutes so the tank can be flushed out. Close the valve and let the tank fill at least half way.

Step 2. Switch on your water pump and open up a cold water tap.

Step 3. Run the water through the tap for several minutes. Ensure the water coming out is clear and not frothy.

Step 4. Take the same fresh water hose and now connect it to the city water inlet on the outside of your trailer. Turn on the water at the source.

Step 5. Go to each tap, turn it on and let the water run for several minutes. Don't forget to do your outside shower if you have one! Again, make sure the water coming out is clear and not frothy.

Step 6. Next, flush the toilet several times or hold the valve open long enough to run the water for several minutes.

Step 7. Locate your hot water bypass system on the rear of your hot water tank. Open the valves, which would be the opposite of the wat they are for winterizing. Let the water run into the tank. You may want to leave the tank drain plug out to let water flow throught the tank to flush any sediment out. Turn off your water supply and let the tank drain completely before re-installing the drain plug. Turn on the water supply again. After your tank has filled, run all the hot water taps to ensure all the lines are clear or RV antifreeze. De-winterizing your water system is as simple as that. Following the above procedure will ensure that your water system is free of RV antifreeze.